Back in Beijing

Returning to Beijing resulted in mixed feelings. I spent three months trying to make this

place my home, and just when it starts to feel normal I return to the America for three weeks.

However, nothing feels like getting to sleep in your own bed and lounge on your own couch.

It is also badass to have a roommate again. One of the unexpected downsides of living out

of hotels is the loneliness. I was hoping for more of a Dunsten Checks In kind of vibe. My

journey to the United States did allow me to stock up on some things that I cannot find in

China including music, books, and cloths. I haven’t been able to stop listening to the new Arctic

Monkeys album AM. It’s awesome. I couldn’t find it in Beijing so I picked up a copy while in

America. Also I gained back some of the weight I lost. I didn’t realize how much I missed cheap

Mexican food and Americanized Chinese food. Traveling to America also meant that I could

binge on American sports. Because of the time change (12 hour difference with the east coast),

Chinese bars don’t often show American sporting events live. I took the opportunity to enjoy

the life of the armchair athlete. How about that MLB postseason, right? I’ve some photos of my

trip to pre-government shutdown DC. But after all the traveling, it’s nice to return to my exile in

Beijing.

Real or Real Fake: Booze in Beijing

The first time someone in Beijing warned me about fake alcohol, I thought they were kidding.

You really mean that bars willing knowingly serve their patrons “fake” alcohol to save money?

You bet. One of my friends explained me the difference between the normal alcohol you drink

and the “fake” stuff shady bars occasionally serve. Both will get you drunk, but the fake stuff

we leave you with the worst hangover of your life. Out with friends, I once only consumed

three beers only to awaken the next day with a hangover so terrible it made the room spin.

The “fake” phenomenon quickly explained the Chinese preference for bottled over draft beer.

Also it reinforces the west’s caricature of China as the world’s provider of counterfeit goods.

Sometimes in China, even the beer is fake. But trust me the hangover is all too real.

Great Reads in the Red Capital

While in China, I have been catching up on my reading.  Like many of you, I neglected reading for pleasure in college due to a lack of free time and sobriety.  Now that I have learned firsthand just how boring the working world is, I have filled my free time with some great books from the Bookworm here in Beijing.  I just finished Lonesome Dove, and I can safely say that it is the best book I have ever read.  If you haven’t read this one, do yourself a favor and go pick up a copy from your local library.  Hell, I’ll give you mine if you promise to read it.  My feelings toward Lonesome Dove came as a relief because two of the “classic” novels I read preceding Lonesome Dove disappointed me.  I finished Midnight’s Children in the beginning of July and The Master and Margarita in August.  Both are widely regarded as classics, but I just couldn’t get into the whole magical-realism vibe and I fear that many of the Indian political references in Midnight’s Children went over my head.  I noticed a copy of tMaM on a friend’s family bookshelf while I was staying with them in LA.  His mother couldn’t stop applauding the book, which leads me to believe I missed something while reading.  Or maybe I just didn’t like it.  I started the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy yesterday just because it is so different from Lonesome Dove.  I bought the book years ago at a used bookstore and have always intended to read it.  As I continue my exile here in Beijing, I know I’ll burn through quite a few books this winter while keeping warm (literally and figuratively), and I definitely plan on reading some books by Chinese authors.  Let me know if you have any suggestions.    

Beijing's Smog: Fact and Fiction

The western media tends to over exaggerate Beijing’s smog.  You’ve probably seen it on the news with photos and video of people wearing masks on their way to work, but the truth is it rarely gets to that point.  Before coming to Beijing, I thought I needed to wear a mask every day to stay alive.  Beijing was sort of like a less hospitable version of Mars in my mind, filled with dust storms and no breathable atmosphere to speak of.  Some days are pretty bad, but those wearing masks are definitely in the minority of the population.  Most of autumn has been clear skies with occasional showers.  I think western media’s relationship with Beijing’s smog is representative of Sino-American relations in general.  Alarmist journalists in the United States love to chronicle the rise of the menacing dragon.  Many in the United States view China as this oppressive, amorphous entity bent on suffocating its way to global dominance.  I do believe the PRC needs to change in open, particularly economically, if it plans to continue its rise on the global stage.  However, like the smog, this might be more of a gross over exaggeration.        

Beijing's sky on a smoggy day 

A beautiful day in Beijing

American Vacation

It is strange to tell people that I am traveling in America for business.  Returning to my home nation has proved an interesting experience.  There is so much about the United States that I have missed while living in China.  I am taking the opportunity to watch as much baseball as possible.  How about that NL Central people?  It is crazy.  I am currently in DC for a few days enjoying all of the capital's tourist sites.  Like all mid-westerners, I am programmed to think of the nation's capital as a den of corruption, excess, and incompetence, but the truth is much more complex.  I have found the tourists in the city to be a reflection of the nation as a whole.  You cannot go anywhere without seeing people sporting jerseys of their area's professional sports teams.  The tourists come from all this great nation.  They represent different races, ethnicities, and religions.  They are proud of their home, and they show it by letting everyone in the capital know where they come from.  Seeing the monuments is cool, but being here only makes me more excited to visit Indiana.  Enjoy the photos.  Sorry the Washington Monument is under restoration   

Events and Occurrences from the Past Week

I haven't posted in a little while.  Sure no one really reads my blog anyway, but I like to stay consistent.  Monday, I started tutoring my first English student.  We spent the last 20 minutes of the lesson talking about American baseball (that's right, I get paid for it too).  It turns out my student owned a Yankees hat, he just didn't know what the symbol meant.  During my time here, I have also been lucky enough to visit some of Beijing's great tourist sites.  Included in this post are pictures from the Summer Palace, because I know my only follower is a big fan of pictures.  Other than that, I really haven't been doing too much of anything except working.  My life is slowly devolving into a Chinese language version of the television show The Office.  I like to think of myself as Ryan the Temp.

The Bookworm - My Favorite Place in Beijing

You really have to hand it to the people who run the Bookworm, they know what they are doing.  The establishment clearly caters to ex-patriots, myself included.  It has a fully stocked bar featuring craft beers and the ever popular Pimm's, great food, and of course lots of books.  They really know how to target the expat market really well.  I bought a 1 - year library subscription from them yesterday (cost: 300 RMB).  It's a great deal for me because I can check out books for my English students (see future blog posts for more information).  The place serves as a central-hub for expats from all over the world.  Just the other day, a Swedish man stopped me in the street and asked for directions there.  That's right, just out of the blue, he asked me to help him find this treasured Beijing institution.  I simply had to tell him to follow me, because that was where I was headed.  Their rooftop area is one of Beijing's true gems, and the establishment hosts many events such as movie screenings and author talks.  The movie screenings are geared toward a slightly older crowd and feature some of the biggest movies from the 1980's (before my time).  Whenever I feel homesick or bored, I always make an effort to stop by the Bookworm and browse through the shelves.  And of course have a drink or two.   

Chinese Culture and Ktv

I went with a few friends to a Ktv venue Friday night (Ktv is the Chinese term for Karaoke).  When they told me that we were going to a karaoke bar, I instantly though of suffering through a bunch of drunk renditions of "Don't Stop Believin'" in a small, dinghy bar.  I found something much different when we arrived at the Ktv building.  Instead of the traditional bar, the established offered private rooms that seated roughly 8-12 people.  Our room contained its own person karaoke machine and screen, and a private attendant to deliver our drink orders.  The people that I went with described it as a very "Chinese" experience, and I must say that I agree.  The whole experience had a slightly surreal feel because of the self-contained nature of the event (and possibly because of the booze).  We went to a building to do something that we could have easily have done in the privacy of someones home.  Only people from our group witnessed our singing. I found it very different than karaoke nights in the US where the audience is one of the biggest (and in some cases best) parts of the night.  Maybe things are more culturally different here than I previously thought.            

The Ashes from an American Perspective

Last night, I caught a few hours of the Ashes at an expat bar with a friend.  That's right, I have friends (my parents are just as surprised as you are).  The bar was filled with Australians quietly watching the poorly streaming video feed from SkySports.  For those unfamiliar with cricket, the Ashes is the semi-annual meeting of the English and Australian International Cricket Teams.  One website yesterday referred to the event as the greatest rivalry in sports that won't end in a nuclear exchange (I think this is a reference to India and Pakistan, and a quite good one at that).  As a general sports fan, I love going to things like this.  Learning about the game is half the fun of going.  That is especially true for a sport as unique as cricket. It resembles baseball in both its game play and the cult-of-the-game that surrounds the sport.  The match was played at Lord's (the birth place of cricket) and I have actually been lucky enough to attend a match there myself.  To the uninitiated, cricket probably looks like a bunch of foreign people, hitting a ball and running pointlessly back and forth, and this is pretty much true.  Sometimes, they even break for tea to further reinforce cultural stereotypes (not a joke).  The most noise the bar crowd generated was when the video feed from the shady website the bar was streaming the game from inexplicably cutout.  The strange atmosphere of the bar mirrored the slow pace of the play on the pitch.  We eventually left (I don't think my friend cares much for cricket, or sports in general for that matter), but seeing expats so far from their home nations support their national side made me oddly homesick.  All the more reason to check out the American baseball games tomorrow morning when the all-star break ends.        

Visiting the Lama Temple

The Lama Temple was better than the Forbidden City.  That's right, I said it, shriek in horror if you must.  However, for me at least, it's true.  It's really refreshing to go to an important cite in Beijing and see it functioning as its intended purpose.  The temple is a real, working temple instead of a preserved ghost town like the Forbidden City.  I really enjoyed learning about the Buddhist prayer rituals.  People light these incense-like sticks, pray, and then leave them at an altar (obviously I don't know much about Buddhism).  If you have an interest in world religions or are just curious, this is a great place to learn.  Also, the statues and structures are amazing.  Be prepared to look like an idiot tourist because you are going to snap so many pictures it won't even be funny.  The Lama Temple should be near the top of anyone's "must see list" when visiting Beijing. Make sure to go all the way to the back of the temple complex to see this amazing statue.

In Praise of Paul Simon's Graceland

I know....I know, there isn't a person on earth that doesn't love this album, but did you ever stop yourself to ask why?  For me, this album was my first introduction to any popular music from the continent of Africa.  It opened a door onto an area of music that many didn't even know existed.  Aside from the African melodies and musicians, Simon really created his own personal magnum opus with this album.  I don't know why that girl in New York City calls herself the "human trampoline," (I can think of a few possible reasons of the top of my head) but I love that lyric.  If you still haven't listened to this one, do the world and yourself a favor and pick it up.  I saw a review for the anniversary edition that called the album "musical prozac."  I must say that I completely agree with their assessment.  The album is sure to put you in a good mood, and is a lot cheaper than a prescription drug habit.    

Expat Culture

Beijing is a hard nut to crack.  The sprawl of the city makes it difficult to explore on foot and the crowded subway and inadequate bus service make getting around, at times, difficult.  However, nothing worthwhile is ever easy, and the city offers so many great hidden gems that it is almost always worth the struggle.  Coming to Beijing, there were two types of culture that I wanted to explore, Chinese culture and expat culture.  Finding the best parts of either of them require you to explore alleyways and get lost in the maze of moderately sized skyscrapers.  Working the Chaoyang District, I never have to go far to find an English speaker.  Which is nice, but my Chinese is terrible to non-existent (but improving).  A coworker took me to one of the city's great ex-patriot hideaways on the north side of the city next to UIBE.  Ahave, the name of the restaurant, was great find offering paninis and other sandwiches.  It's places like this that make all the walking and waiting worthwhile.  I am hoping to checkout a few bars this weekend near the SOHO building. 

Sports

I am currently trying to find a local bar/venue to watch my favorite sports teams, but am not having much luck.  It is definitely more difficult than I though it was going to be.  For one thing, Beijing is 12 hours ahead of the east coast, and 8am isn't exactly the greatest time to crack open a beer (however, there is no time like the present).  Also, and this is a very broad generalization, sports aren't as big over here as they are in the United States and Europe.  Still, some expat bars have sports on during the afternoons.  I actually caught some of Wimbledon the other day, not on purpose though.  I don't really care about tennis.  In the meantime, I am trying to adapt by following Beijing Guoan in the Chinese Super League.  They are currently fourth in the table, and it's nice to root for a team that doesn't always lose (I should mention that I am a QPR fan).  Likewise, China has a baseball league believe it or not, and I intend to check out the Beijing Tigers play on the south side of town.  If anyone knows of a good bar that shows American sports, make sure to let me know.      

Frank Turner - Tape Deck Heart Review

Frank Turner is at his best when he plays uptempo and fun songs.  Get ready for plenty of those on his new album.  Turner duplicates the energy of "England Keep My Bones" while creating a record and sound that feel fresh and new.  What's really cool about the album is the way it explores the theme of "letting go."  This comes as little surprise from the man whose last record focused on death and mortality.  Turner should be admired for the energy and feeling that he packs into each of these songs.  At a time when many music fans argue that the albums are dead, Turner presents proves otherwise.  Make sure to pick up a copy of this album.  

Stand Out Tracks - Recovery; The Fisher King Blues; Oh Brother    

Vampire Weekend - Modern Vampires of the City Review

If you are like me, it's been a year or two since you listened to your copies of "Contra" and "Vampire Weekend."  I recommend listening to them before you spin "Modern Vampires of the City."  This gap in my listening schedule comes from the distinct nature of the band.  No one sounds like Vampire Weekend.  I assure you that the band keeps this tradition alive on their new release.  Being said, prepare for a mellower album with a slower pace.  This isn't to say that the band lost their style between MVotC and their last release.  However, if you want to hear an album filled with tracks like "A-Punk" and "Holiday" look elsewhere.  The change in tempo adds depth to their music, and allows the band to explore musical styles that don't involve african-beats and harpsichords (two of their staples).  Never fear, the lyrical wit and obscure references that you have come to love permeate the album.  If you are like me and quickly growing older, you should appreciate this new release.  It will be playing in my headphones for months to come.    

Review: 9/10

Stand Out Tracks - Unbelievers; Diane Young; Finger Back; Ya Hey

Please let me know albums that you'd like to see reviewed.  I take requests.     

The Strokes - Comedown Machine Review

The sound of most bands changes with time.  Without this fact, the Beatles wouldn't have made Sgt. Pepper's.  Some reach new heights, the Arctic Monkey on "Suck It and See," and some stagnate and reach new lows (see any Red Hot Chili Peppers release since the late 1990's).  However, you can't fault a band for trying something new and moving in a different direction.  That is exactly what the Strokes started with "Angles" and they continue it with "Comedown Machine."  For those of you that still live in the "Is This It?" bubble, you will find a lot to like here.  "All the Time" and "80's Comedown Machine" should please anyone still stuck in the last decade.  Also, the entire second half of the album flows with great style and ease, and it possesses a high replay-ability.  This just became my new favorite chill album and if you love the band, you'll most likely enjoy this album too.  The experimental song "One Way Trigger" serves as the weak point of the entire album (reviewed in last post).  Still, I highly recommend this album.  It does not contain any amazing songs nor will it win back any fans alienated by "Angles," but as an album it works.  The Strokes made something that easily plays alongside the rest of their discography, just in a very different way from their other releases.

Review: 8/10

Stand Out Tracks - "Call It Fate, Call It Karma," "All the Time," "80's Comedown Machine"

   

The Stokes- The Singles

The Strokes new album, "Comedown Machine," comes out soon, and I hope to review it shortly after its release.  However, the band already released two songs in the run up the albums release, and these two songs could not be more different.  "All of the Time" plays like a return to form after some of the more challenging (I mean challenging to listen to) cuts from 2011's "Angles."  Everything that caused you to fall in love this band shines through on the track.  The angular guitars, the nonchalant vocals, and the lower east side swagger, it's all here.  It's almost like 2001 never ended.  If this track serves as any indication, any Strokes fan should get excited for the album's release.  The familiar nature of "All of the Time" contrasts with another track leaked from the album called "One Way Trigger."  If you thought "Machu Picchu" was the best track on "Angles" than you'll find yourself in heaven.  If you really dislike 80's synth bands like A-Ha, this might be your personal 10th circle of Hell.  Two very different early listens mean that this album could either reach new heights or sink like the Titanic filled with fat people.  Make sure to come back in a couple weeks and find out.   

Palma Violets 180 Review

While traveling in England, I had the chance to snag a copy of this bands debut and see them at the 100 club.  Let's start with the album review.  Yes, it doesn't come out for a few weeks in the US, and no I am not sure if this is legal.  However, I bought the album off the shelves, so I think it is okay.  For a debut, this work is impressive.  These guys made a record that rivals far more established acts in terms of fun, listenability, and repeat playability.  "180" quickly replaced last year's "Lonerism" as my standby album.  The energy and recklessness of the band ooze from every track.  Also, it is refreshing to hear a vocalist with a lower range for once.  Two great tracks bookend this album with the energy of "Best of Friends" and the exhausted angst of "14."  My main hope is that this band can deliver a followup equally as good.  Listen to this album and you will not be disappointed.

Review: 9/10

Stand out tracks- Last of the Summer Wine, Best of Friends, 14

Live Review

Anytime I visit London, I make a pilgramage to the 100 Club.  This time, I was lucky enough to catch Palma Violets shortly after NME crowned them as the United Kingdom's best new band.  That Monday night, they lived up to the title.  After two great opening acts, they took the stage and electrified the crowd.  Everything from the vocals to the drums personified rock.  It is no wonder that some compare the ramshackle energy of the band to the Libertines.  By the end of their set, chaos had broken loose as the crowd stormed the stage.  With live performances like this, Palma Violets deliver on all accounts.  A new "must see" band has truly hit the music world and is taking it by storm.  Make sure to catch them when they make it to America.  

Titus Andronicus: Two Great Albums and Counting

Titus Andronicus proved their talent with their followup album in October of last year.  Any band releasing two great albums in a row is noteworthy, but consider that their discography is only two albums long.  This kind of early creative streak shows the promise embodied by the band.  I got a chance to see them at the Village Voice Music Festival in 2011.  Trust me, they put on a mesmerizing live show.  Any music fan looking for something refreshing should pick up a copy of Monitor and enjoy.    

Japandroids- Celebration Rock

Yes, I know this album came out over seven months ago.  Yes, I just bought it last week.  However, this album deserves some much delayed praise from this blogger.  Let's just start by saying that this is a really great album.  From start to finish, the tracks push relentlessly from one to the next driving the album forward a fevered pace.  As a result, it becomes impossible to stop listening.  The album sports amazing lyrics, catchy guitar hooks, and great drum work, and all of these things combine for one great collection of songs.  For the uninitiated, this duo from Vancouver sounds like the punk counterpart to the more blues-centered sound of the Black Keys.  Some might detract from the album because of the similarity of the songs.  But who cares with songs this great?

Review: 8/10

Stand out tracks-  Fire's Highway, The House that Heaven Built

Photo from japandroids.com

Palma Violets- Not Just Hype

With the upcoming release of their debut album, many have responded to this up and coming London band with a collective "meh."  Often compared to the Libertines and the Stokes, many claim the band doesn't offer anything original.  However, this commentator believes the band will live up to the hype that surrounds it.  For one, their songs are great.  "Best of Friends" and "Step Up for the Cool Cats" prove that this band can combine catchy hooks with distorted guitars.  This results in some great songs.  Hopefully the rest of their debut album will provide more of the same.  Secondly, I haven't had a chance to catch them live yet, but I heard they are an amazing live act.  I am hoping to catch them at the 100 Club March 4th when I am in London at a gig sponsored by Converse.  Despite making a name for themselves in the UK, not many people know of them stateside.  As of right now, the destiny of the band sits firmly in the hands of its members.  With a great album and some aggressive touring, the band might just breakthrough onto American college radio.