Radio Free China

During my time in China I have learned to love podcasts.  Everywhere in this city takes roughly an hour to get to by mass transit.  Initially this resulted in some strain in the relationship between my Ipod and I.  With so much of my time spent traveling from one destination to another, my music library started to seem very small.  I felt like I was hearing the same 2,000 songs over and over.  This of course was because I was hearing the same 2,000 songs over and over.  While 2,000 songs might seem like a lot, try listening to them on shuffle everyday for three hours.  Factor in that there are about 200 songs I don't really like that much and usually skip.

That's where the podcasts come in.  I never boarded the podcast train back in the United States.  It seemed like a fringe culture for techies, listening to shows about computers and coding.  I started with news podcasts which seem to be most people's gateway drug to the podcast subculture.  Suddenly I realized I could find podcasts about things that interested me, such as baseball and international business.  Then I started hitting the hard stuff when I moved over to NPR podcasts.

Before getting hooked on NPR podcasts, my opinion of National Public Radio had as much to do with boredom as radio programs.  The mental images conjured by stories of Lake Wobagen didn't really perk my interests, in fact they did just the opposite.  I now know the error of my ways.  NPR shows might be boring to listen to while driving in a car, but they are perfect for my commute based around foot and rail transportation.

My favorite NPR podcast is a show called Snap Judgment.  The program consists of three to five short stories, usually performed by their writers.  I now find myself eagerly waiting for episodes.  I am also really enjoying NPR's news related game shows, such as Wait, Wait Don't Tell Me and Ask Me Another.  It's fair to say I'll be donating during this year's Pledge Drive.  I am shooting for the mug with an optional tote bag.

Note: This blog post was made possible by readers like you.  

China's Obsession with the "Chubby Blue Guy"

Notice his trademark bell and pocket

He's a giant celebrity in Asia, particularly China.  Not bad considering the piss-poor state of Sino-Japanese relations.  He's been a staple of television for over 40 years and is merchandized on almost everything from pajamas to cellphone cases.  He's Doraemon.  The lovable, robotic cat from the 22nd century.  Usually known in China by his Chinese name, Xiao Ding Dang, Doraemon is loved by billions, that's right billions, of fans.

Though relatively unknown in the United States, Doraemon cartoons and comics have been a staple of the Asian continent since 1969.  Today he seems more popular than ever.  A visitor to the Chinese mainland might mistake him for a Chinese creation, because of the locals' massive love of all things Doraemon.  However, Doraeomon originated in the Land of the Rising Sun.  I found myself slightly disappointed to find the relative Japanese apathy towards their homegrown anime hero compared with the Chinese.

Karate Doraemon

An entire store dedicated to Doraemon exists just one block from my apartment.  Dubbed the "Doraeshop", this establishment sells every conceivable Doraemon product.  This robotic cat and his time machine pocket allow him to get into all kinds of wacky misadventures.  From his pocket, Doraemon pulls out an array of problem solving, and problem causing, gadgets to help his owner.  He also loves eating this Japanese pancake/pie thing.

Doraemon merchandise

However Doraemon is not without his distractors.  A Chinese newspaper recently told its readers that Doraemon was an attempt by the Japanese government to distract from its wartime atrocities.  It advised its readers to "beware the chubby blue guy".   Even the government knows that this robotic cat's charms are hard to resist.  Remember to beware the chubby blue guy.   

I'll spare you any longwinded discussions about the implications and meaning of this cartoon character regarding China and its image of itself.  When I asked my girlfriend what Doraemon meant to her and China she said just one word, "Childhood."

   

Drum and Bell Towers

Obligatory Selfies (Drum Tower)

Bell Tower

It's amazing the things you'll put off because you are so close.  I live just down the street from two of Beijing's most important landmarks, and due to a combination of laziness and restorations, I haven't ever been inside of them.  Yesterday was a beautiful day so I decided to checkout the Drum and Bell Towers and see what they had to offer.    

The two towers lie on Beijing's north-south central axis with the Bell Tower directly north of the larger Drum Tower.  The axis continues south to Jingshan Park, the Forbidden City, Mao's Mausoleum, and the Qianmen Gate.  The two towers were in charge of keeping time in the capital until the 1920's (Republican Era).

Drum Tower at ground level

Bell Tower from the square between
the two towers

Drum Tower as seen from the Bell Tower

Story about the casting of the bell

Between is a newly renovated square.  The square has been the focal point of some controversy during recent months.  Originally shops and restaurants lined the square, including the Beijing institution the Drum and Bell Coffee Shop.  When the local government decided to renovate the squares, these businesses were closed or relocated to other parts of the city.  Now the square is completely surrounded by grey brick walls with a few holes cut in them serving as entrances to the local hutong neighborhoods.  

It's important to go on a clear day.  Almost nothing can be seen from the towers on a smoggy day.  However, on clear days the views are spectacular.  Some tourists spend a week in the capital without realizing Beijing is surrounded by mountains on its Northern and Western sides.  A trip to the towers offers some great views of these mountains.    

Stairs in the Drum Tower

Notice the Mountains in the distance

The Bell is made of bronze according to the signs in the tower.  Notice the picture of Beijing's favorite tour guide preparing for the tolling of the bell.  

The Drum Tower has a drum demonstration show several times a day.  I recommend it.  It's free and very informative.  The center drum is the largest (center), and it's partnered with several smaller drums.  The performance lasts about five minutes. 

The Drum and Bell Towers are in central Beijing.  The central part of the city has height restrictions on new construction.  Outside the Second Ring Road buildings are much tower.  This results in the decentralized nature of the Beijing cityscape.  Please enjoy these photos and understand that it is next to impossible to arrange this many photos on Blogger effectively.

Local tour guide protecting ears

Cat inside the security area.  Notice his camouflage vest,
making him difficult to spot in his nature habitat

Bell and that thing that hits the bell

Looking south of the bell tower to Jinshan Park.
The street is 鼓楼南大街

Frozen Houhai lake with ice skaters

Me on top of the Drum Tower

The namesakes of the Drum Tower

Section at the top of the Drum Tower

South east Beijing from the Drum Tower.  Notice the short
buildings of the old city contrasted with the taller buildings
outside the Second Ring Road

Bowled Over

Classic

It's an unassuming bowling alley.  It has lanes, bowling balls, and snacks just like any other.  The shoes still sport that characteristic bowling shoe appearance with the sizes on the back.  However, something important was missing.  Something every bowling alley has was conspicuously absent.  Then I realized that it was much easy to breathe than it should have been.

Me in action

Believe it or not, a bowling alley without the smell of smoke is a troubling thing.  The comfort you get from the smokey smell and your familiarity with it go a long way to making you feel safe.  When it isn't there, something just doesn't feel right.  My trip bowling the other night was a bit of a surreal experience.  After spending my morning watching the Colts get beat down by two guys that are the sports equivalent of Emperor Palpatine and Darth Vader (Belichick and Brady), I needed to blow off some steam at the lanes.  

Tang Qi ready to roll

Absolutely nothing in the alley gave any indication I was in China.  It was as if someone had picked up a bowling alley from suburban Indiana and dropped into the basement of a Dongzhimen building.  Even the measurements were in Imperial standard.  My shoes said size 11 instead of 46, and the balls proudly featured their weights in pounds instead of kilograms.  Everything was in English.  You often encounter this "copycat" phenomenon in China where their sole goal is to copy something so exactly from America that you can't tell the difference.  This concept certainly extends to the food here too.

Just like in America, it was a great way to spend a night out.  And just like in America, my bowling skills need work.  

In China, a good deal of socializing
is done with your phone

      

Happy Ending at the Massage Parlor (not like that)

Overworked like this guy?
Get a massage

I woke up a few mornings ago with some back pain.  Eighteen hours on a plane will do that to you though.  Tang Qi recommended I go to a Chinese massage parlor, but I had some serious reservations.  I didn't see how it would help.  Or more accurately I couldn't see through my cultural perceptions  how it would help.  Chinese massage parlors conjure mental images of giggling Chinese, female masseuses and shadiness.  She convinced me to go, and I must admit that my trip to the massage parlor helped.  I dragged her with me just in case I came home one kidney lighter.  That way I'd at least have a witness.

Tang Qi on the way out of the place

The building was exactly like what I imagined.  It sported a very "Soviet" feel, including two tone walls with peeling paint.  The waiting room of course had the diagrams of the human foot that every massage parlor has smattering the walls.  Some out of date magazines sat on the table in the waiting room, including a copy of Yacht magazine (yes it's a real thing in China).  I enjoyed flipping through it, and the next time I take my yacht to Xiamen, I'll now know where to park it.

Tang Qi dodging the photo

The massage room was open, so there was no need to disrobe.  I remained full clothed, and because of a lack of opening, Tang Qi sat on a chair next to my massage bed.  I credit her vigilance with the fact I still have both kidneys.  At least I think I have both kidneys.  Two other patrons lay on their stomachs in the middle of their massages.  The masseuse pulled a dingy towel off a rack.  The rack looked like a medium sized Coca-Cola refrigerator you might find at a 7-11.  About halfway through my massage one of the other patrons began to snore, loudly.  A good deal of snicking laughter occurred.    

The masseuse working
his magic

Look at that concentration

I got to enjoy about an hour in the chair for the low, low price of just 40 yuan.  I also left feeling much better.  My back felt better, and I felt like I could cross an important milestone off my Beijing bucket list.  

Extra:  Checkout this photo of Beijing during SMOGOCALYPSE 2015.  Yesterday the pollution literally went of the scale.  It issued a yellow alert from the government.  That's right, just a yellow alert for this.  Sounds like a joke, but it isn't that red dot is the sun at about 3pm.

SMOGOCALYPSE

Indiana by comparison

Tang Qi and I visited one of Beijing's ever increasing craft breweries for food and drinks

The Paper Chase: Searching for an Elusive Book and the Time to Read It

I've experienced a few false starts reading-wise lately.  Starting books but not finishing them.  It happened with the overhyped Run, Rabbit and continued with the longwinded Shogun.  Since these setbacks I've read some really great titles, including two Agatha Christie novels.  One great, the other good.  I also read a throwaway space thriller from the 1980's too.  Long story short, the future of the 80's runs on speak-and-spell computers and Japanese industry.  Back in the U.S.A. I attempted to read a book that has eluded me for four years.  The kind of book that sits on the shelf collecting dust, just waiting for you to crack its spine and begin reading.  We have a history this book and I.  One that goes all the way back to a longtime ago in a galaxy far, far away.

I first picked of a copy of Star Wars: The Last Command from a bookstore cellar on the Charing Cross Road in central London back in 2012.  I knew even then that it was the third book in the series, because of my abortive attempt to read the first book in high school.  I bought the copy of the book regardless, and it sat on the shelf in the tiny closet sized room that I called home on Stamford Street.  There it sat on my bookshelf for the next six months, while I scoured London's secondhand bookshops looking for the first two books in the series.  Again, long story short, I failed.  The copy of the book came back to Indiana with me.

In Indiana I was able to checkout a copy of the first book from the local library.  Though I am not much for the Star Trek and Star Wars tie-in books, the novel was fantastic.  After moving to China I tried listening to audiobook of the second book in the series.  I didn't get much out of the experience, missing most of the plot and several key events.  However, finding a copy of the second book in the country proved next to impossible.  Finally I secured a copy of the second book thanks to Amazon and a visit from my Mom.  I am now very glad I secured a girlfriend before admitting this.  I doubt publicly admitting that you used your mother as a mule to transport Star Wars novels across continents would earn you many points with the ladies, but I digress.  She brought the book over and I read it in less than three days.  It was great.

Finally it was time to breakout that globetrotting copy of  Star Wars: The Last Command and read it after nearly four years gathering dust on my bookshelf.  Upon returning home, I realized that I'd donated the book to charity during my visit to the United States last March and forgotten about it.  Ever resourceful, I checked out a copy from the local library.  However I had already created an obstacle for myself.  Hoping to be able to take the book back to China with me, Agatha Christie's Murder At The Vicarage was already ahead of it in my reading queue.  I only got 25 pages through SWTLC after I failed miserably at solving the murder in one of Ms. Christie's more mediocre tales.  In my panic I bought a copy of SWTLC on Amazon when it became clear I couldn't finish it before leaving, but in keeping with the past, it didn't show up until after I'd already departed for China.

Now I am back to square one.  So if anyone in China knows where to get a copy of this 1994 Timothy Zahn classic, shoot me a We Chat.       

Tourist in Your Own Country

Roughing it seaside

Someone smart once said that you should never become a tour guide in your hometown.  Truer words were never spoken.  The tired, old places and things that have long sensed blended into the background of memory might make wonderful and exciting sights for a first time visitor.  By that logic, I probably wasn't the best tour guide for my girlfriend's first trip to the United States.  I made sure to mitigate her expectations before the trip.  She watches a lot of American TV shows, and I felt the need to prepare her for visiting the midwest.  She seemed disappointed when we had "the talk" about a week before we left for America.  Basically I told her Rachel and Ross lived in New York, which is tall, and we were going to Indiana which is very spread out.  I also made sure to stress the fact that unlike the entire cast of Friends, not all Americans are white and look alike (sometimes I get Ross and Joey and Phoebe and Rachel confused).  

Please don't feed the birds

At Naval Air Museum 

Classic jumping photo

The trip went well for a few reasons.  Most women like to shop.  It's sexist but true, and Indiana has some great outlet malls.  I owe my aunt a debt of gratitude for taking Tang Qi to the outlet mall so I didn't have to do it.  Tang Qi enjoyed meeting my family and learning the local dialect of English.  This was great for me.  It lessoned the financial burden on my wallet, and we didn't need to make expensive excursions to New York or Chicago.  However, I did reach a point during my family vacation to Florida when I priced airfare for an early return to China.  This feeling eventually lessened though never really passed, but Tang Qi had so much fun that I couldn't really have left even if I wanted to.  Our two day trip to visit New Orleans let us spend some time with the laid back part of the family and greatly reduced my stress levels.                

Everyone thinks they're a DJ

At Deanie's 

Pacer's Game

Classic Rosie

Another great tourist attraction was of course the food.  Despite my failed attempts at hyping American-Chinese food, she seemed to really like American food.  It was nice to finally lay the myth of homogenous American cuisine to bed.  While living in China, I have been constantly bombarded with Chinese culinary propaganda about the diversity of the food here.  Really it's about half true, but it's made me realize just how diverse the food in the United States is compared to other countries.  Tang Qi had a great time exploring the restaurants.  Her favorite was the oyster bar, imaginatively named Oyster Bar, we ate at in Pensacola, FL.  

Classic couple photo

French Quarter Highlight

Where are all the people?

America made for a great vacation destination, letting Tang Qi meet my family, explore somewhere new, and enjoy a slower pace of life.  I got my "freedom fix" by reading news that wasn't government propaganda, and I enjoyed the "American Renaissance" that I've missed out on while living in China.  Catching up with old friends was a great end to my trip to America.  Though my liver didn't really like the affordability of American bars.  

Getting on the right track

I always tell others that it's the people in a place that actually make it worth visiting.  The Grand Canyon is just a hole in the ground, the really interesting part is the Native Americans and others who call the area home.  New Orleans would just be a swamp below sea level if it didn't have the amazing Creole, French, Spanish, African, Cajun, and American culture that make it such a unique and vibrant melting pot.  And Indiana would just be a bunch of emptiness without the people who call it home.