Sunday, September 28, 2014

Average "Jiu": Navigating the Complicated World of Chinese Baijiu

Moutai Baijiu on the shelves
Chinese baijiu doesn't have the fame of its close cousins Japanese sake and Korean soju.  This is probably due in large part to the fact that it is usually unpalatable.  You might ask why I'd chose to write an article about it then.  The simple answers are that its the world's most consumed spirit and a huge part of Chinese culture.  No trip to China would be complete without sampling some of this crazy liquor that the locals love.

The Chinese relationship with baijiu and foreigners goes hand-in-hand.  As a foreigner they will constantly pressure you to drink it, while simultaneously telling you how terrible it tastes.  After you drink it, they will usually think both less and more of you as a person.  The love affair with the spirit means you'll likely be forced to drink it at some point during a dinner.  While I wouldn't say any baijiu is good, even the expensive Maotai brand, some brands are worse than others.  I recommend putting your bottle of baijiu in the fridge before you drink it.  This will make it more drinkable.
Baijiu making an appearance in the contemporary
classic Cocktail

People often drink the spirit out of tiny baijiu goblets that have the added bonus of making me feel like a giant when I drink from them.  A round of drinking includes lots of people saying"Ganbei".  Ganbei is the Chinese word of cheers, and no meal is complete until it is said at least 50 times.  The Chinese love their baijiu, so make learning about it a priority.  Tucked away in one of Beijing's quickly disappearing hutongs sits a entire museum dedicated to the liquid.  Make sure to check it out before it gets "restored" in a few weeks.  

Bad baijiu usually exudes a smell like finger nail polish remover.  The statement you just read is not a joke....finger nail polish remover.  It is very distinct to put it lightly

.  So maybe baijiu deserves its bad reputation, but I still strongly recommend you try it.  Just warn others about it before they pop their bottles of souvenir "Chinese sake".           

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Epilogue to Empire: Scottish Referendum

Millions go to the polls today in Scotland.  Voters will be asked a Yes/No question to decide if Scotland will become an independent country.  The media circus surrounding the event blew its top last week after a poll showed a lead for the Yes Campaign.  So what does this referendum mean for Scotland, the United Kingdom, and the rest of the world?  The answer is "it means a Hell of a lot" particularly to nations with active separatists campaign (both peaceful and violent) such as Spain and China.

I for one don't buy the Scottish National Party's argument for independence, especially the economic arguments that serve as the cornerstones of the Yes campaign.  Let's begin by focusing on the currency union the SNP hopes to continue with the United Kingdom if Scotland votes for independence.  The plan is eerily similar to the Republic of Ireland's position until it joined the Euro Zone.  Under the SNP plan, Scotland would keep the pound as its currency with interest rates and monetary policy set by the Bank of England across the border.  Basically keeping the status quo intact, but with a newly independent Scotland using the pound, and no central authority over taxation and public spending, the value of the pound is likely to fall due to economic uncertainty north of any newly created international border.  The uncertainty has already caused the value of the pound to take a dive.

Scotland's uncertain future in the European Union and the issue of trade deals also muddies the water.  Though an independent Scotland would likely become a European Union member following a vote by European Union member states, don't expect countries with separatist groups and sharp ethnic devisions to welcome Scotland with open arms.  It should come as little surprise that Spain continues to reiterate the fact that Scotland will need to apply to become a European Union state rather than just grandfathering in like the SNP originally hoped.  Alex Salmond's response to statements made by the Spanish government earlier in the week was simply to quote figures about Scotland's share of Europe's fishing and oil industries.

Outside the common market, Scotland's position is even more uncertain and confusing.  Will British bilateral trade agreements still stand apply to an independent Scotland?  No one seems to have an answer.  It's also important to remember that any agreement must be consensual anyway.  Again, don't expect countries with their contrary political agendas to cut Scotland any slack, particularly China.  Only a few weeks ago, the Chinese government expressed support for the rejection of independence.  This should come as little surprise considering the increasing unrest in Xinjiang and its monolithic white elephant Tibet.

Watching the situation unfold from Beijing has proven quite entertaining.  Six months ago, few people, least of which the Chinese media, would have predicted the surge in support for the Yes Campaign.  Initially Chinese media printed stories about the referendum in a sly effort to mock the once all powerful British Empire.  The same Empire that "lost" Hong Kong and fought two opium wars against a rotting Qing Dynasty.  Most of the stories read like a bad Mad Magazine article.  The main idea was usually "the British can't even hold Britain together anymore".  A few weeks ago media stories over the issue dried up faster than spilt Artic Ocean (Beijing's favorite orange soda) on a hot summer day.  The very nature of the vote shakes current Chinese politics to the core.  A nation that is part of a union is voting whether to leave that union.  Crazy notions for a country where any talk of independence is labelled separatism, and the offender usually disappears.  Just ask prominent Uighur academic Mr. Tohti who was jailed earlier this week.  Usually the entire democratic nature of the issue gets brushed aside likely because you need to live in Hong Kong or Macao to vote in China, and even then, you can only vote for "Patriotic" CPC approved candidates.  

I am not Scottish, and I don't live in Scotland.  From the perspective of the outsider looking in, the whole Yes campaign seems jingoistically nationalistic.  Kilts and Saltires for everyone.  As immigrants continue to come to England from Europe and elsewhere, I am not surprised that the demographically stagnate Scotland is facing an identity crisis.  But no one has done a very good job of convincing me that independence will fix any of Scotland's problems.  The nation would likely just have to face the harsh truth that they held their future in their hands the whole time.  Wether they fly the Union Flag or the Saltire over Holyrood or not.         

        

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Burger Counter

I just finished my first week of Chinese classes, and I am enjoying the mooncakes from Mid-Autumn Festival probably a little too much.  The classes are pretty much exactly what I expected them to be.  You sit in a room with a teacher and some other students and repeat after the teacher while writing notes.  It's standard stuff.

The classes have started to affect my ability to operate in everyday life here in Beijing for the better.  Although I am still reluctant to let the locals knows that I speak Chinese.  Contrary to popular belief, not knowing the language will usually get you farther here in China.  My newest endeavor to adapt to Chinese culture has shifted my dietary tastes.  After class Tuesday, I couldn't stop myself from visiting Beijing's best kept secret for western cuisine.  Burger Counter is exactly what the name implies, a counter where you eat burgers.  As opposed to what it explicitly states....a counter made of burgers.  The tiny one-room establishment probably couldn't hold 10 people on a rainy day, but what he place lacks in size, it makes up for with great burgers at reasonable prices.


You might be wondering why I have chosen to highlight Burger Counter instead of one of Beijing's great Chinese restaurants or one of the super-deluxe western places that continue to proliferate like rabbits.  Burger Counter deserves notice because the lady behind the counter fixing the burgers doesn't speak English, making this place a welcome addition to my restaurant rotation.  At a time when every American place in town is owned by some overly charismatic 40-something expat, Burger Counter cuts through the blandness with original burger creations.  Do yourself a favor and try the Chili Con Carne Burger.

Visiting Burger Counter is always a pleasure, and its great selections of beers and sodas makes it a must stop for anyone homesick and visiting Beijing.  Just make sure you don't invite too many people to eat with you, because they won't be able to fit in the restaurant.