Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Global Epidemic: World Cup Fever

Suck It Ghana
I am very excited for the start of the World Cup this week in Brazil.  Like all red-blooded Americans, I have a very minimal interest or knowledge of soccer, but that doesn't stop us from enjoying America's 2014 campaign.  You kick the ball around, it's boring, and I usually just wait for it to end.  My favorite part of the match is timing how long the announcer can yell, "GOOOOOOOOOAAAAAALLLLL," before he runs out of air in his lungs.  However, cities across the United States continue to start professional teams, so it will become my duty to support Indiana's new minor league soccer team, even if I don't have much interest.  I think of it as the summertime equivalent to caring about the Indiana ICE hockey team.  So even if I don't understand why they occasionally kick the ball in from the corner of the field, I plan to catch every second of this year World Cup....at least until the United States gets knocked out, then I can go back to not caring.  But until this happens, it's my patriotic duty to support the 美国 team. 

去美国 (Go USA)
I will certainly own up to the fact that I wouldn't feel obligated to watch any of the event if America didn't make the tournament.  Team USA involvement is my sole motivating factor for waking up early to watch matches, and my non-American roommates find my attitude towards the global game hilarious.  Who even won the last World Cup????  I have no clue, because it wasn't America.  My personal attitudes sit at the polar opposite end of most educated Chinese.  China didn't qualify for the tournament, and support for the team seems solely based on their success rather than any kind of patriotism.  It is an interesting cultural difference.


Most of the people I've talked to about the national team claim to support the national squad from some other nation, such as Brazil or England, rather than that of their home country.  I wholeheartedly expect to see many Chinese sporting England, Brazil, and Spain jerseys over the next few weeks, and there is no doubt in my mind that sales for the winning nation's jersey will skyrocket here in China following the event.  This has shown me a great deal about how China's educated view their homeland.  Wearing the jersey of some other nation would probably get you heckled, or worse maybe even beat up, in the United States.  Justifiably so in my opinion (supporting the heckling not the beating here).  No matter how bad the Untied States soccer team might be compared to other global powerhouses is irrelevant to the vast majority of us.  It's the United States squad, and it deserves support regardless of its national ranking.  The whole phenomenon has shown me that I and my fellow countrymen are far more patriotic than I though before my move to the Middle Kingdom.  

I can't even make this stuff up people
I found out recently that North Korean soccer fans at the 2010 World Cup were actually paid Chinese actors (not a joke).  I am considering hiring a few of them to give me the motivation that I need to finally clean the dishes in my sink, but their newfound fame after the event has raised them out of my price range.


The World Cup is one of the few international events where it is probably more American to lose.  I stress "probably" here.  We'll start worrying if Puerto Rico defeats the US basketball team again (God forbid).  I mean, how do you celebrate a World Cup victory anyway?  Half the time, I don't even know what is going on during the game.  However, until the final whistle blows, here's to hoping America dominates Group G.  And even if they don't, "Meh."  I wouldn't really know if no one told me anyway.    

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Tiananmen: 25 Years Later

This week marks the 25th anniversary of the military crackdown on the Tiananmen Square protests.  A large Orwellian fog obscures most young Chinese people's knowledge of the event.  The vast majority of those I have spoken with about the event don't even know that the protests occurred over several weeks proceeding the crackdown, and most in China have almost no knowledge about what touched off those protests in the first place.  Rumors circulate that the Chinese censors hired to erase images of the event miss snapshots because they have so little knowledge of the protests.  I have heard that twice as many troops sieged Beijing during the crackdown than were used in China's invasion of Vietnam a decade earlier.  I might be unsure of the number of troops here, but believe me, "seiged" is the correct term to describe the event.

The most famous image of the crackdown.
To understand Tiananmen and China 25 years later, you must look at what was happening in China at the time.  The country's economic reforms in the late 1970's started a train in motion that derailed in June of 1989.  In roughly a decade, the entire focus of the nation shifted from "ideological purity" to "economic reform".  The two were certainly mutually exclusive in this case, and the adoption of free-market reforms severely harmed the party's "mandate of heaven".  Many of the economic reforms, though successful in stimulating the Chinese economy, resulted in nepotism, unemployment, and corruption, and China is still yet to emerge from the political coma that resulted from the crackdown.

Many of the protesters now hold important
positions in Chinese society
The youth of China remain ignorant to the events of the protests, largely by choice.  This is difficult for many in the west to admit, but it is sadly true.  Why risk imprisonment when I can travel abroad for freedom? remains the attitude of many of the country's elite.  A recent article published by the BBC detailed the phenomenon of "naked officials" in Guangdong sending their families to live overseas.  The government forced the officials to recall their families or face demotion or losing their jobs.  However, only a small fraction of the officials could convince their families to move back to mainland China.  This attitude of Chinese elite has gone a long way to exacerbate China's political coma over the last 25 years.      

Link: http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-27747097
The Goddess of Democracy
defies the Eternal Helmsman

It is not a matter of "IF" a reevaluation of Tiananmen will come in China, but "WHEN".  In all likelihood it will coincide with some other significant event, such as an economic slowdown.  Though the Chinese economy continues to grow at breakneck speed, economic slowdowns are an inevitable part of any economic cycle.  Nations post-industrialization don't growth at 9% anymore, and despite the blind belief many here have that China is some sort of special, magical nation that will buck this trend, it simply isn't going to happen.  The CPC should do itself a favor and reevaluate the actions of its former members while times are still good.  Waiting until it is forced to do this will only hurt its credibility and legitimacy.  While this seems like common sense for any authoritarian regime needing popular support, never overestimate the Communist Party of China and its common sense, or lack thereof.         

25 years later, the CPC continues its attempt to perfect authoritarianism.  Economic prosperity became the lifeblood of the party's legitimacy in China post-Tiananmen, but what will happen when that form of legitimacy becomes harder to find.       


Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Opening Party for Hutong Cultural Center

I don't know what this is....
but it looked cool
Enjoying the weather in the courtyard












Thanks to my awesome connections (guan xi), I got an invitation to the opening of a new hutong cultural center.  The new center, located just north of the Forbidden City, chronicles some of the quickly disappearing aspects of hutong life in China's changing capital, and it is housed inside of traditional courtyard residence that once served as an urban hideaway for Beijing's elite.  These kind of boutique tourist destinations keeping popping up in the capital, and I highly recommended them to anyone visiting and looking for a taste of pre-revolutionary life.    

library filled with government
approved reading material

awesome tree




My roommate and employee of the establishment

Monday, June 2, 2014

Visiting the Office

We got "photo bombed" by the PLA
soldier in the background

This is the big leagues folks
I visited the GF's office over the holiday to checkout the work environment and participate in some water cooler chat.  Since she works as a tour guide here in Beijing, the office visit wasn't as mundane as it initially sounded.  We took the hutongs behind my apartment all the way to Tiananmen Square Monday on a tour of some of the capital's most iconic sites.  The square wasn't very crowded considering it was the Dragon Boat Holiday.  On a side note, I am not really sure what the Dragon Boat Holiday is for because my day had a distinct lack of dragons and a complete absence of boats.
I am going to have to get one of these

Despite this confusing Chinese holiday, we overcame the shortcomings of the holiday and created a few of our own traditions.  On the way to the square, we stopped in at a cafe for a few drinks.  It was in this unassuming cafe that a new milestone in my life was achieved.  I won my first xiang qi victory against Tang Qi.  The subject is still a point of contention in our household, with her reminding me about the 99 games in a row that I lost before my first victory, but the sweet taste of that one victory is so good.
Checkout that Laowai in a
green hat

Right about here, our maturity
level bottomed out
The rest of our day was spent checking out the square and the Qianmen shopping district to the south.  The Qianmen district, just south of the Qianmen gate, is pretty much the Chinese equivalent of the Mainstreet, USA at the Disney theme parks.  It comes complete with every bland American and Japanese chain store that you can think of and a trolly system that is nothing more than a charming novelty.  Ever want to drink coffee at a Starbucks that is next to a pagoda......me neither, but the Qianmen District is worth checking out.

They did a pretty good job getting it to
look to scale on the 100 yuan bill
Our trip to Tiananmen proved quite enlightening.  Initially I just wanted to checkout the increased security for the "anniversary" this week, but the trip ended up being a lot more about the "fun" and less about the "fear".  It also gave Tang Qi the opportunity to be the tourist instead of the tour guide.

Though going into the office on your day off might sound like a terrible way to spend a holiday, we both managed to have a lot of fun and enjoy the great weather now that Beijing is finally cooling off.