Great Leap Brewery: Beijing's Ellis Island

Trying to explain to my Chinese girlfriend why I refer to the Great Leap Brewery as the “Ellis Island” of Beijing took some time and effort.  First, I had to explain what the hell Ellis Island was, then its impact on American history and immigration, and finally why the Great Leap resembled this famous gateway to America.  Once the analogy made sense, she certainly concurred.  Go to GL on any given night and here languages from all over the world.  Hear English in every accent imaginable and take some time to soak up some internationalism in this famously provincial megacity. 

  

All of this unfolds while lao wei and Chinese scarf down one of the best burgers that I have ever been lucky enough to eat.  That’s right….I said “ever”.  I know…I know, but trust me.  You can find some great hamburgers in China if you just know where to look.  However, the beer is a little lackluster and overpriced, but you can’t have everything. 

Great Leap is one of the first stops for any foreigner “fresh off the boat” from home.  (That is how expatriates refer to newcomers)  It was one of the first places that I went to after arriving in Beijing, and a trip to the GL usually includes at least one fresh-faced, idealistic foreigner who’s ready to experience all China has to offer; after they have one more American-style burger of course.  Though the food is always comforting, the real wonderful part of the experience remains the fact that the other diners don’t stare at me, because they too are likely culturally exhausted lao wei in the Middle Kingdom, looking for a reminder of their homes across the ocean. 

Since the opening of its Sanlitun branch, the restaurant/brewery has gained a cult following among Chinese and a hub-like atmosphere for foreigners.  It is my Chinese girlfriend’s favorite restaurant, so naturally she had her birthday dinner there.  Even foreigners that don’t hail from the west, such as Korean and Japanese expats, use the brewery as their unofficial base of operations.  Sometimes I joke that they’re going to start shuttle services between PEK (Beijing Capital Airport) and the Great Leap.  I should buy a bus and get a Chinese driver’s license and make a killing.  The phenomenon reinforces the idea that in China, all foreigners belong to a single, relatively homogeneous class unto themselves.  Not inferior or superior in anyway, just different.  There are Chinese and foreigners and not much in between.   

The Chinese wait staff specializes in the dialect of Chinglish spoken by tourists and expats trying to master the linguistic difficulties of Mandarin.  Long story short, they all have the patience of Job.  Imagine a bunch of picky foreigners yelling, “Wo bu yao pickle,” at you all day long.  I’d lose it.  And I must say that it is nice to go to a restaurant and not have to yell, “fuian,” to get a waiter to get off their cellphone and pay attention to me.  So comps to the GL for that. 

One of my favorite jokes to make is that a police raid at the Great Leap would get half the illegal foreigners living in Beijing, and this isn't far from the truth.  In the choppy waters of Beijing, sometimes it’s nice to have an international port of call that helps fresh off the boat lao wei to adjust to their new home.  Most will just have their passports stamped and visas checked, but others at the GL are going through the naturalization process just like Ellis Island’s immigrants of yesteryear.            

The Mansions

My roommate will undertake that wonderful expatriate pilgrimage known as the “visa run” this weekend.  Chinese visas almost always feature a stipulation that the foreign visitor must leave the country after a certain number of days.  Once the foreigner crosses the border, they are free to reenter China and the countdown starts again.  So basically, if you have a one year visa with a 90 day limit, you must leave China every 90 days and then reenter the country.  You can literally just walk across the border, have your passport stamped, and reenter the country without even waiting, all in one afternoon.  If it sounds stupid, pointless, and confusing….that is because it is.  However, it makes it possible for foreigners to qualify for an excessive amount of vacation days, and I am definitely okay with this. 

The most popular destination for expatriate visa runs is the former British colony of Hong Kong.  I know what you are thinking.  “But Trevor, Hong Kong is part of China now.  Why is it considered a foreign country?  Shouldn’t you have to go to Mongolia or Korea to be considered outside of China?”  Don’t question the logic here folks, because Hong Kong is great.  Hopefully it will remain this way after 2047, when Beijing can “officially” alter Hong Kong’s way of life, but I wouldn’t bet on that horse.  But I digress; look for more on this subject in future posts.  My roommate asked me if I had any recommendations for sightseeing and places to stay.  My answer to both was the same; Chungking Mansions. 

First Floor Bazaar

Quite possibly the world’s most famous and lovable ghetto, Chungking Mansions is a 17 story deathtrap on Nathan Road in Kowloon across the bay from Hong Kong Island.  The Economist basically hit the nail on the head when it labeled Chungking Mansions as the real-life equivalent of the Mos Eisley cantina bar from Star Wars.  No trip to Hong Kong would be complete without a visit to the Mansions.  Contained in its walls are people from all over the world, speaking every language imaginable, and living, sleeping, and working within the aging confines of this low rent, high rise slum.  

The Mansions are known for specie (gold and silver) smuggling.  Not to be confused with species smuggling. 

 

I certainly don’t mean to create a negative image of Chungking Mansions by using the world slum to describe it either.  If I was going to live in Hong Kong, the Mansions would be my first choice of accommodation, no matter what kind of budget I had.  Made famous by films, such as Chungking Express and Bloodsport, it embodies the globalized world.  Taking a step inside the carnival-like bazar on the ground floor and not having someone offer to sell you a fake Rolex is simply impossible.  And honestly, who can’t use another fake Rolex?  Many of the travelers staying in the building’s cramped (I am talking closet sized here) youth hostels are thrill seeking, broke tourists like me.  Looking for cheap accommodation and willing to sacrifice fire safety for chance to be in the “middle” of the world’s most exciting city.  The building’s exposed wiring and lack of sunlight go a long way to facilitate the idea the Mansions is a world unto itself, not governed by any external force.

The building's dilapidated facade

This metaphor certainly extends to Hong Kong as a whole.  After reverting to Chinese authority in 1997, the former Crown Colony remains resistant to encroachment from Beijing.  I myself witnessed this year’s joint “Return British Sovereignty” (yeah, it’s a thing.  I was shocked too) and “Autonomy Movement” protest on January 1st.  And with Beijing’s crackdown on freedom of the press in Hong Kong, it is little wonder why the lawless, freewheeling atmosphere of the Mansions has become a symbol for the city over the years.   

One of the building's inner courtyards.   

     

You simply have to love the irony.  In a city synonymous with wealth, extravagance, and the rich/famous, the most exciting and interesting place just happens to be a ghetto.  And why not?  For every person with an interesting story to tell, living in a bungalow on Victoria Peak, Chungking Mansions has ten.  Albeit, in much more unsafe and cramped conditions. 

Not exactly up to "code', but whatever

Spacious Accommodations

It didn’t take long for the Mansions to work its way onto my roommate’s itinerary, and it is perfectly understandable why.  A trip to Hong Kong just isn’t complete without a visit to Chungking. 

Truly a city within a city                         

Trainspotting

Someone put in a request for a post about the Beijing subway system.  In keeping with the tradition of the Beijing subway, I decided to perpetually delay the post until now and then overcrowd it with meaningless opinion.  I don’t hide my contempt for the Beijing metro very well.  You can tell a lot about a city by its mass transit lines.  For example, New York’s system is brilliantly designed and executed, but terribly maintained, and Chicago’s has so much character, but leaves massive sections of west and south Chicago untouched.  Beijing’s shows the world how quickly the Chinese like to build things without really thinking about the future. 

Back in the day as a young, idealistic Hoosier, I loved visiting cities with rapid transit systems.  The idea of reading a book during my commute seemed like a wonderful alternative to spending time alone behind the wheel.  New York, London, Chicago, and Paris represented opportunities for more centralized living that didn’t require four wheels, a driver’s license, and expensive trips to the gas station.  Beijing turned this dream into a nightmare. 

Beijing Subway 2013

Alright, I am over exaggerating a little.  There are a lot of great things about living in this city.  However, the subway certainly doesn’t make the list.  As a result, the rest of this post will come off a little negative.  For one, the system is massive and constantly expanding.  Beijing added several new stations just last month, extending Line 8 into the center of the city.  Line 10 alone features 42 stations and is the world’s largest subway loop.  Line 14, stretching from the city’s southwest corner to Wangjing in the north east, is expected to be completed in the near future. 

All of these lines and stations should make zipping around the city a breeze, unless you want to go in a direction that isn’t east-west or north-south.  As of yet, the Beijing metro doesn’t have any lines crisscrossing the city, leading commuters to make multiple transfers at already crowded stations. 

In terms of ridership, Beijing now ranks as the second most ridden subway system in the world in terms of number of passenger trips, behind Seoul.  A very impressive feat considering the Seoul subway has much large trains with more cars per train.  As a result, the Beijing subway feels infinitely more crowded than its companion in the ROK’s capital.

Beijing Subway 2008

I am no engineer, but whoever designed the thing was definitely looking to cut some corners.  No express lines, malfunctioning ticket machines, and security checks make sure that ever commute is an unhappy one.  That’s right folks; you have to go through an airport security check every time you ride the subway here.  However, the “thoroughness” (I use this term very, very loosely) of the check ironically leaves with an insecure feeling.  I hold the belief that these bag scanning machines only exist to control traffic flow and keep people employed.  Refuse to submit to the security check, and they’ll simply let you walk on through.  (I haven’t done this, but I see people do it all the time).       

The metro does possess a redeeming quality.  Some of the monitors in the stations and trains show cartoons.  Most are safety videos where the characters get into some unsafe situations.  They can be funny, both intentionally and unintentionally.  The poor production values go a long way for comedic effect.  The best part of the subway is the episodes of Shaun the Sheep they sometimes play on Line 5.  As you might guess, Shaun is a sheep who lives on a farm with a group of other animals.  It’s made by the same people who brought us Wallace and Gromit.  Let’s just say I have missed a few trains because I couldn’t stop watching Shaun’s Claymation shenanigans.  I like the sheepdog the best.  His hat is legit.  Whenever my commute becomes too stressful, I take a cue from the farmer in Shaun the Sheep and just pretend that I am oblivious to everything around me.  Another important life lesson learned from children’s cartoons.     

Priceless Comedy Gold

        

   

Beijing: City or Municipality?

Ask anyone about the size of Beijing and you’ll get several different responses.  Do you mean the city, the metro area, or the municipality?  The common misconception in the west is that the municipality and the city are the same thing.  I remember, back before I moved here, my father telling me about some speaking he saw at some conference.  The dude said Beijing was a city of 20 million surrounded by seven ring roads.  This dude’s assessment wasn’t entirely correct, but it says a great deal about American perceptions of China and Chinese cities in general. 

Trying to apply the standard state/province model of political geography to China doesn’t work.  China consists of provinces, municipalities, autonomous regions, and special administrative regions.  Beijing falls under the municipality category, being controlled directly by the central government.  Beijing municipality is roughly the size of the state of Connecticut and has a population of around 20 to 21 million people.  But don’t confuse this with an urbanized population of 21 million.  There are parts of the municipality that are as devoid of human life as Wyoming.  Take Line 1 of the Beijing metro to its western terminus and you wind up in the mountains.  Much of the land is still farmland, and looking at a map of the region will show you that Beijing city is only a small portion of the overall area. 

While the urban core of the city makes up the vast majority of the municipality’s population, it can be deceiving at first glance.  Many Chinese likewise find the structure of American cities to be hard to follow.  As a city grows in China, the central government can simply add the surrounding area to the city without much trouble.  US federalism prevents this.  It is very difficult to explain to my Chinese colleagues that I grew up on the Indiana side of Louisville, KY. 

Coworker: “If you grew up so close to Louisville, why isn’t your area part of the city?” 

The concept of city-county merger is also very difficult to explain. 

Coworker: “Why are some cities and counties merged and others are not?” 

Me: “Because the people have to vote for it.”

Coworker: “So many of the people in the suburbs work in the core of the city, use its services, but don’t have to pay taxes there?” 

Some great arguments exist on either side.  While city-county mergers go a long way to combat the problems of shrinking tax bases resulting from middle-class flight, they also can skew crime rate and poverty statistics, making cities look safer and wealthier than they really are.  Despite their success at reversing the declining fortunes of some rustbelt cities, most notably Indianapolis, mergers are by no means a panacea.    

The whole experience has made me realize how rigid the US system is compared to other nations.  Even in the United Kingdom, the boundaries of counties’ can be adjusted to account for population growth.  For an interesting read, check out the 1965 Act that created present-day metro London in England. 

In short, there is no standard way to measure the size of a city.  The city of Chicago might only have 2.6 million people, but its metro area is much larger than that (somewhere in the neighborhood of 9.7 million people).  I know many residents of Hammond, Aurora, and Naperville that say they’re from Chicago for a number of geographic, political, and professional reasons.  However, many of these same people would fight annexation by the city tooth and nail.  It sort of embodies the American dream of “choosing” your identity.    

"English" Names

Foreigners quickly learn that everyone in China has an “English name”.  People often introduce themselves by their Chinese name, quickly followed by their conveniently easy to remember English name.  This can sometimes led to some really awkward questions.  What should I call you then?  Do you prefer your English name or your Chinese name?  And sometimes their English name is ridiculous.  My neighbor across the hall wants me to call him Christ.  That is right, Christ.  Not Chris, Jesus (Hey-Zeus), or Christian, but Christ.  I avoid him for several reasons, his name being just one of them.  It made Christmas time very awkward as well.  I fear that Easter will be a nightmare. 

There are some other classic English names out there as well.  Some of the highlights: Zero, Cool, and Seamen.  The reasoning behind the unusual names is also priceless.  It usually makes sense in theory, but do to cultural and linguistic issues, something gets lost in translation.  For this reason, I remain hesitant to adopt a Chinese name, fearing some coincidental double-entendre.  Poor Seamen doesn’t even realize his English name “blows” despite efforts to educate him about the double meaning.       

I usually try to learn people’s Chinese name and use it instead of their English name.  How would you feel if some foreigner said, “Hey, your real name is hard to pronounce and remember, so your new name is Zhou.”  I, for one, would be royally pissed.  However, my roommate pointed out that there is a monumental flaw in my logic here. 

Most people are absolutely delighted when I use their “English name”, rather than their Chinese one.  My roommate pointed this out for me a few months ago, and it put things into perspective.  He said that it isn’t about what makes me uncomfortable or comfortable.  People have many motivations for using their English names, and I should follow their wishes and refer to them by their chosen name, instead of the one I prefer.  He said that at his old job, many of the Chinese staff didn’t even know each other’s Chinese names, preferring to exclusively employ English names in the office.  The phenomenon resembles the reinvention that many of us experience through adolescence.  Everyone had that one friend growing up who decided to arbitrarily change their name.  The phenomenon even extends into romantic relationships with the number of non-Chinese friends a woman has dictating her name preference.  And really, who am I to go against their wishes.  

Yeah, not knowing people’s Chinese names might make the email directory at my job next to impossible to navigate, but it’s just one of the unique aspects of working in the Middle Kingdom.  I am not the same idealistic office worker that I was when I arrived in China, and long gone are my dreams of preaching cultural self-acceptance to my Chinese friends.  If you want to be called Jeff or Stacy, whatever floats your slow boat.     

I Am Almost Fluent in English

Tutoring English as a part-time teacher stands out as one of my most rewarding experiences in China.  I currently teaching three classes a week and my students vary in age from 6 to 36.  The age difference between the students keeps things fresh, and one of the three classes is a group class of four working professionals.

 I am really enjoying reliving my youth through Dr. Seuss books with the six year old student.  I launched into a rant about how the Cat in the Hat Returns is derivative of its predecessor and not up to the good doctor’s usually high standards of originality. Eventually, I caught myself and came to the realization that this 6 year old kid in front of me couldn’t understand anything that I was saying, and he just wanted to hear/see how the fun cat in his funny hat made a mess of things.  Though my literary criticism was lost on my student, his mother in the other room laughed, so at least someone agrees with me.  Truly, Green Eggs and Ham remains the Godfather of children’s’ stories.

Teaching English also gives me a chance to learn about contemporary Chinese culture and Chinese views about US culture.  A few weeks ago, I spent 20 minutes trying to explain to my student that we make fun of our leaders in the west on a fairly regular basis.  This simple concept perplexed her, and she kept asking why we made fun of them.  I told her that it keeps them accountable for their actions and prevents idolization.  She finished by laughing and saying, “The media doesn’t make fun of leaders in China.”      

Other concepts are laughable as well.  Take the weather for example.  It is the “go to” topic for small talk, and I make sure that all of my more fluent students receive instruction in this much nuanced conversational topic.

Me – Been really hot lately

Student – Yes, yes it has.  But I think it is supposed to cool down later in the week.

Me – Really, that is good to hear.

Every American has had countless conversations along these lines.  However, do to cultural differences, the idea of passing the time or staving off awkwardness with a conversation about the weather is laughable to most Chinese.  This explains the funny looks I get when trying to break awkward silences in China.    

Occasionally a student will throw out some piece of party line history from a bygone era.  After all, China was a very different place 20 years ago you know.  A former student once told me that the Soviets SOLD East Germany to West Germany because they were running out of money.  I let it slide.  Who am I to miss with the guys perceptions of the past?  Besides, the last part holds some truth.  Truly communist states really frown on budget deficits and debt.   

They say teaching is the noblest profession, and after my experiences as a part-time English tutor, I am starting to agree.  The experiences challenges and rewards me each week, and seeing the progress of my students gives me a feeling of pride.  Also, teaching English, whether fulltime or part-time, is on everyone’s expat bucket list over here.              

News of the World in the Middle Kingdom

I feel guilty saying this, but Chinese news broadcasts are hilarious.  I mean one of the funniest things I have ever seen in my life.  There is a certain formula to the broadcast that gives the news a sense of consistency, making it less like the news and more like watching the same episode of a sitcom over and over.  Every broadcast features these important “stories”

Japan – Every Chinese news broadcast must feature at least a half an hour of coverage about the rise of the Japanese war machine, and its attempts to prevent the Middle Kingdom from protecting its islands in the South China Sea.  All stories about Japan directly relate back to this central theme.  Some in the west call Japan “the Tiger without Teeth”, but no one will ever accuse CCTV of such a thing.   

Three Magic Words – “Reform”, “Leaders”, and “Development” are the three most used words in any Chinese news broadcast.  So much so, that my roommates have created a drinking game around these three magic words.  The Holy Grail of Chinese journalism is finding a way to work all three words into one sentence.  It usually happens about once a week.  The Chinese media have sort of twisted the definitions of the words to make them broader.

·       Reform – Making any changes to any system.  Used to imply that the changes are for their benefit of the people and an all-around good thing.

·       Leaders – Any Party member.

·       Development – Building anything, anywhere, at any time.

Chinese Aircraft Carrier – News broadcasts love to feature footage of the PLA Navy’s aircraft carrier.  However, they always fail to mention that the carrier will not be battle ready for quite some time.  They will pretty much find any reason to show it.  Often, it appears during the Japanese segment.  Make sure not to get it confused with the footage of Japan’s aircraft carrier. 

The formulaic nature of Chinese news has helped me understand Chinese society a little bit better.  So the next time you need help understanding the Middle Kingdom, tune into CCTV and watch a female reporter with short, cropped hair give you the same news she did yesterday.  It might not be the best source of news, but I promise it will make you smile.